Have you heard of Caga Tio? He is an adorable Catalonian Christmas character, a log with a smiling face who often dons a red hat and tartan blanket. His name means “poop log,” and the poor fellow gets hit with a stick by Catalonian children who sing to him asking him to poop nougat! As soon as we read about Caga Tio, we knew we would embrace this tradition when celebrating Christmas with my mom, sister, and Michael in Spain.

Simon, the kids, and I started our trip in Torrelodones, northwest of Madrid, where we reconnected with our Spanish cousins- Leigh, Thorley, Rhys, and Ryann. We hiked in the brisk cool air up to a scenic viewpoint before we split up, the boys going to cheer on Rhys’ basketball team and the girls going to Ryann’s holiday recital. The kids had fond memories from our first visit in 2020 and had a great time reconnecting with the cousins, as did we!

Madrid was festively decorated, and we enjoyed walking around and seeing the sites, including the Royal Palace, and the art trifecta of the Thyssen-Bornemisza, Prado, and Reina Sofia. Alden wasn’t feeling well and missed the Thyssen and the Prado but Mila impressed us with her curiosity and museum stamina, taking her time to observe and reflect on what she saw.

We had a last hurrah with the Madrid cousins, enjoying a fabulous meal and Gelato before saying farewell. Alden dared Rhys to eat a lemon wedge and agreed to keep a photo of Rhys on his lock screen til they meet again. He has sent a daily screenshot to Rhys and Ryann as “proof.” If he misses more than one day in a month, he has to eat a whole lemon. The picture on the left is one that Michael agreed to keep on his phone til 2024.

We enjoyed a high-speed train to Barcelona where we met my mom and headed to the Sagrada Familia. Though still under construction, it was stunning and a wonder to see.

The next day, we caught up with Emily and Michael and headed to Girona, where we spent Christmas. We strolled around the old town center, enjoyed the Christmas decorations, bought our Caga Tio, and visited local nativity scenes where we joined the locals in searching for the pooping figure that is a customary addition to most nativity scenes in Catalonia. Though we were tempted, we did not buy any of the pooping souvenir figures of celebrities and politicians.

The Dali Museum was another highlight- a unique collection of Dali’s works from many periods including optical illusions, whimsical sculptures, and animated jewelry- quite surreal!

On the way back to Barcelona we stopped by a village known for its ‘pessebre vivent’- another Catalonian holiday tradition. At night, the village is transformed with actors and elaborate props to recreate the nativity and to depict the surrounding village life. I wish we had planned to see a nativity scene at night when it comes alive, but it was still an interesting experience to see the town set up for the event.

For the rest of the trip, we explored Barcelona- focusing on the amazing art and architecture throughout the city and enjoying the holiday decorations and festive vibes.

Mila on the roof of Casa Mila- Gaudi’s modernist masterpiece

The unique facade of Gaudi’s Casa Batllo

Park Guell’s views and architectural wonders

Sculptures at the Joan Miro Foundation

Llums de Sant Pau- light installations at the Hospital de Sant Pau where we enjoyed the decorations, music, giant Caga Tio, and the ice-skating rink!

We certainly missed my dad, who had been with us on our last Christmas together in Spain in 2019. Though I miss him and think of him often, the holidays hold many fond memories from my childhood and Christmas visits together in Portland. I remember his joy and sweet voice singing along to Christmas carols. I imagine him with us Christmas morning documenting the kids’ delights at opening Christmas presents and his feigned surprise at opening his own (usually something he requested and knew he was getting). I thought of him often during our trip, imagining him there with us. I am thankful that we were able to be together with my mom, my sister, and Michael- to reminisce about holidays past and to make new memories together.